Sword Making-Day2

Novel Name: Isekai Blacksmith shop slow life

chapter: 153

Sword Making: Day 2

Estimated reading time: 3 minutes.


Second day of sword making


Today, will be the next step in the process of unenbei (unrolling) Finally comes the process of shaping the sword, hizukuri.(forging) Riku will also observe from today's work. Samya, Deanna and Liddy are making sword moulds.


A story about a dwarven sword or something quite romantic would be nice. I would like to see them do their best to make it.


Hizukuri is the process of heating and pounding the material from its unrolled state which is still only a rectangle overall, to form a pentagon with an elongated cross section. Naturally, one vertex of the pentagon is the blade edge.


The opposite side of the cutting edge is the mune (peak), and the sides of the mune are the shinogi-shinogi (blade patterns). Heat and pound the unrolled sword blade about 10 cm at a time to prepare it.


After that, the stem, which is the part that fits inside the handle, is also shaped and the cut end shaped by dropping the tip of the peak side into a triangular shape and tapping it. The tip of a sword can be long, short, round, or somewhat straight but this time I chose a round, short boar neck tip.

In the previous world, it is said that the shape of a sword can be used to determine the period and the maker of the sword, but in this world, there is no such thing, and I basically left it to my sensory-based cheat.


At this time, the warpage must considered to some extent considering how much warpage will occur when the material quenched later. (TN: warp of metal in forging) My cheat making it a lot easier for me, I can see how great the sword smiths in the previous world are doing when I make my own like this.


As I worked in this way, the shape of the sword I was familiar with created. Of course, it is not yet complete.


Wait for the whole to cool before reheating. Now heat the whole thing at a lower temperature without heating it so much that it becomes red hot, and then allow it to cool.


After removing the iron oxide film on the surface with a whetstone, the Shinogi-ji and Hira-ji (the flat area between the Shinogi and the edge of the blade) are hammered. This seems to tighten up and increase the cutting ....... I'm a little unsure if it's true because I'm using a cheat.


When that work is finished, it is time to harden ......, but no matter how much work is done with the cheat, the surface of the sword will be uneven, no matter how large or small because the metal is being hammered with a hammer.


This is then shaved and flattened with a file or a special cane (since it is not available, a custom-made model knife is used instead). Subtle distortions adjusted here. The border between the stem and the blade made at this stage.


With this, the process of creating the shape of the sword is finally over.


The clay used for the mould, whetstone powder and charcoal powder are mixed to make a baked or fired blade or clay potsherd. In the previous world, the formulas seem to differ between workshops and artisans, but in my case, I leave this to the cheats as well.


A thin layer of burnt blade clay applied to the entire blade. The entire surface coated with burnt blade clay and the sword is black. Now, here comes the most troubling part in a sense.


The blade pattern on the sword appears as a mixture of different tissues at the border between the area quenched and the area not quenched. The shape of this blade pattern is determined at this stage by applying clay, and there are many different shapes.


I will skip the detailed classification, basically my preference is one of the following: straight blade with no wavy edge, gently wavy wan-no-tare, and more tightly wavy even-grained blade.




I take a thin stick (made from a piece of wood) to apply the burnt blade clay. In reality, I would have used a brush or something to draft the blade pattern, but I let Cheeto take care of that, too.


I originally told Riku that I would be using a brush here. I don't want to suddenly try to place soil and have to worry that it won't work.


Thus, the application of burnt blade clay is finished. The ridge side is thicker and the blade side is thinner. In this way, the blade side is hardened and the ridge side softened to further improve cutting ability and durability.


I thought about finishing the burning process today, but the sun was already setting. The quenching itself will be fun tomorrow.



We cleaned up the work area and went outside to take care of Krull, whom we hadn't bothered before preparing dinner. Krull was a little sulky but when Deanna or I petted him, he started running around in a good mood.


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